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It just goes to show how much mis information there is on the internet about soap making. Using the internet to base ideas around cp soap making is not advisable. This shook me up a bit, as when I went around the markets looking at soap this weekend and found most of them were selling cp soap as...

all that stuff is just cold press soap. What makes you think that cold press soap is good for the hair? I have read all the threads and still can't see the logic in why you would call body soap shampoo. Is it very wise to retain hundreds of threads claiming cp soap to be shampoo? I have seen...

If so, what makes you think that skin soap is suitable for the hair, and also, if soap was in fact suitable for hair, then why do they make shampoo? Just trying to understand the logic of why people think that saponified oil is good for the hair.

I just made some nettle tea, I just boiled the fresh nettle and used the water from that for my water. It wasn't as green as that but it came out very green. It was good because I thought the green wasn't going to make it through. Still not sure how good for the skin it will be after going...

That is not entirely true, there are some all glass stills out there that can extract a remarkable amount of EO out of a small amount of foliage. What kind of still were you using?

take some fruit rinds, i. e lemon, kiwi, banana peel and boil it. Then, use the water from that for your lye. You then enhance that with the appropriate EO. I suggest that you buy a small EO still and make your own EOs.

Today I cut my largest lavander batch to date. 45 pounds. It make about 135 150 gram bars. It gelled nicely but had a bit of soda ash, though it is not lye heavy. Any ideas on why it would have soda ashed? I use wood molds and my mix is 40% palm, 20% coconut, 20% olive, 10% rice bran, 10%...

Yea well I took all your advice and came up with two bad batches. If you think hard crumbly soda ashed soap is real soap, then you can keep it. What do you want me to do? Just keep making horrible batch after horrible batch until i don't want to make soap any more? I prefer soap that feels...

Mine isn't called copra, and it is made in new Zealand. I buy in bulk. Find a shop that fries food and they should have it.

Maybe that is the problem. It seems like the calculators are all American based and using SAP values for American oils. Every ingredient I use is made in New Zealand. The olives are probably different and the coconut is probably different. The quality might be a bit more or less. Who knows...

I have done those calculations, and they give me similar results for lye as the calculators. I have done many papers in chemistry, and I know how it works, but for my soap the chemistry that you people are using doesn't work for my soap. What is the SAP chart you use? they all have different...

I did take your advice and made a batch exactly how the lye calculator calculated it. I demolded after 24 hours, and the bars were covered in soda ash and pretty mush impossible to cut. I have spent hundreds of hours researching how to calculate bugger batches, it is not as easy as just doubling...

Why is it so hard and crumbly after only 24 hours in the mold? Does normal soap get cracks in it? I have a batch on now. I am going to put exactly that lye calculation into it and demold after 12 hours. If this one fails I am going to incorporate more soft oils. It is all in the name of...

It gave me this, which is about what I used. Which puts me back at square one, because it makes the soap lye heavy.

But even if I plug 29% into lye calc, it still gives me 660g of lye but with a large amount of water. If I put a large amount of water with it will it dilute the lye down enough to not ruin my soap?

You caught that before my edit. I added 1225g of water. I was looking at my earlier notes and not my lab book. My lab book had ticks at all the measurements so that I preformed the experiment perfectly. I looked at at that one and thought no way. I do my calculations as 660/990*100 which...

I weigh it all out on scales 1200g coconut oil 1410g olive oil 2025g vegetable shortening total= 4635 Water 940g Lye 384g 40% lye 60% water which means that of the 940g of water, 40% of that is lye. A 40% lye solution. lye calc 660g lye 1225g water Which I plugged in as 35% lye concentration

I don't know about that. I made the recipe 4 times that day with 3 being my calculations and 1 being the soapcalc calculations. I haven't messed up a batch for years and years and then after everybody told me it would be alright I tried the lye calcs on page one and what do ya know, it is sold...

exact same recipe. The top one has its water and lye calculated by soapcalc and the second was my made up amounts.

I don't know why the calculators don't work for my soap. This has given me a massive headache for a long long time. All I want to do is resize my batch. This is what soap soapcalc gives me. Covered in soda ash, not gelled, probably lye heavy. Even the professionals here can't help me. This is...