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Say, has anyone on this thread tried rebatching with this soap?

What's your brand/site? I see guys on the forums frequently asking about Canadian artisans that aren't being rebranded as RazoRock and I don't have anyone to suggest to them.

But if the rest of the oils are at a temperature lower than the melting point of stearic, and you add the stearic to them, isn't there a chance you could lower the stearic below its melting point and cause it to recrystalize? It takes a while, but I usually just put everything in the crock...

I personally recommend wetshavingproducts' umm.. products. :) I have had 3 of them (used one this morning, Stubby in Superfine) and they've all been great.

That initial looser lather settles down just fine with continued application of the brush. What I usually do is just keep loading anyway, scooping the loose lather up w/ the brush or a finger and putting it back in the action. If your experience is anything like mine, you might find it easier...

I've used it cold, it's not a problem. I've also used it with a hot scuttle. It deflates a little bit between passes so you want to swirl it with the brush again, but that seems to be universal.

I tried it this way, too, and it worked fine. It seemed to get lumpy/stiff faster, which made it a bit harder to get the oils and lye thoroughly mixed, but it wasn't a big deal. It is supposed to make for a slightly harder bar and easier unmolding. I haven't noticed that at the concentration...

Yes, having extra room does help. The way I determine that it's fully mixed is to mix until it looks uniform. You could also try using a hand mixer on low. I'm going to try that with my next batch.

I have had the same issue, particularly when I'm using a larger percentage of EO and let the soap cool off more. Here are the things that I have found that help: 1. Add the glycerin right away while the soap is still hot. Makes it easier to add, and then having the glycerin in it will make...

Depends on how much you have. If it's enough (or part of a big enough load of oils) it can take quite a while.

I had these same issues with a green mica I didn't check for high pH stability. It turned orange, then purple, and some of it turned back to green. I wrote about it in my aptly named thread, "Go home, soap. You're drunk."

I've used them for both CP and HP soap. They work pretty nicely. I didn't have as easy a time as Candybee with lining them, so I just snip through the metal band at the top and then peel the cardboard off like opening a can of biscuits.

Oh, I definitely get that. I just want to give it every chance I can to stay in the soap. I think the soap would be unmixable if I let it get down to 105 (to match the lime & lemon EOs, for instance). But I do let it get down to 115 or so. Looks like I'm buying a cheap hand mixer. I don't...

I made a set of reusable liners from a sheet of vinyl. So far, it works well.

I made sufficient mistakes early on that I can say that flash point definitely makes a difference. Not an all-or-nothing difference, but significant.

I have moved out of the kitchen, for multiple reasons. However, a 3M painter's mask works just fine to prevent any accidental aspiration. I've gotten more conscientious about it recently.

I have a couple of shaving soap scents that make use of low-flashpoint essential oils (citrus oils & rosemary, specifically). Waiting for the soap to be (near) cool enough to add the EOs results in a very stiff product, even with sodium lactate in the formula and added glycerin. This week I...

Looks like there is one at Scentsational.

Sure. Though I may have missed the boat. The one I found before was at Exotic Fragrances and it looks like they no longer sell it. I'll poke around a bit more.

What sort of container do you use for masterbatching lye?