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If you ask a moderator (they can be found under "STAFF" above"), they can organize this for you (other's have moved away from their personal name to a nickname/forum nmae, so it is not an uncommon request :)).

Yes, that was the point. (Longer is nicer, and both castille and salt bars require a long cure.) @Carl Castille turns to mush if it's not cured long enough. Her melt and pour is interesting ... I like her molds ;)

Yup. Longer is even nicer. Castille makes salt bars look speedy ;)

In addition to the links Dawni has posted, you might like to look at this :) Aunti Clara did a magnificent set of (picture heavy :)) trials, using varying water to create swirls she called Ghost Swirls ... https://auntieclaras.com/2015/09/the-ghost-swirl/...

If mushy means the batter is still fairly fluid, you could make up a 50% lye solution (enough to make the correct superfat for your soap) and put the mushy soap batter back in your pot to stick blend in the additional lye solution.

Nice - they'll do perfectly (lucky score :))

That's an interesting thought ... I'd always thought that the scale measurements go up once the weight had been reached - I'm off to check different sorts now! [Kitchen,soap and post] :)). Anyway, scales aside, I like grams (kilograms, heck, the whole metric mile ;)) ... because I can multiply...

100 grams is getting a bit too small for test batches - at this weight, any slight variation in measurements can have a drastic effect on the final feel of the soap. If your scales aren't accurate to 2 decimal places, then I would not attempt this. For example, 100 grams of olive oil would...

I think the question of what happened has been covered (the soap overheated, possibly due to the higher coconut oil content and perhaps exaggerated by environmental factors, like insulation/wrapping and/or heating). I would like to say that I actually like the effect you have in your soap. If...

Oh these are just totally sweet! Nice first soaps - welcome aboard @Jasmyne Grooms :)

Most folk tend to talk about the percentages in relation to the oil weight (not the total soap batter weight), so cmzaha's salt bar, for instance, is 100% of the weight of the oils in salt. A common salt percentage is 50% (50% salt to oil), and at this rate it is quite lovely. Having said that...

Ok, that's it! ... DINO Loaf! :lol:

I do like beeswax in soap and usually use it at about 2-3%. (The suggested usage maximum of 1-2% in that link is based on them adding the beeswax without taking it's SAP value into account - it's just as easy to add it to the list of oils - soap calculators usually have it listed with a SAP...

Hi @hungryhawaiian, They look like lovely soaps! Welcome aboard (I'll look out for your next thread :)). In the meantime - please pop a thick cotton cloth (which is reusable and lye resistant) or some matting under your soaps - chromed metal is likely to trigger DOS in your soaps (I hope you...

It looks like glycerin rivers to me @SYT Kiwi - you'll get more at 28% (the lye is free-er to move around, get to the soapy surface and find some CO2 to make beautiful ash with ;))

PS. Yes, you will need to reduce your batch size, if you want to keep it all in the same mold. Alternatively, make it once and work out how much extra batter you end up with (those can go into individual molds, which are a lot easier for salt bars - as @Snowbell mentioned, salt bars need cutting...

Just add salt to the soap at a thick trace (it needs to be reasonably thick, so the salt stays suspended throughout). The recipe for salt bars are often much higher in coconut (with a corresponding increase in superfat), to ensure that the soap lathers in salty water. I tend to add sugars in...

I'm still in planning (leaving no stone unturned ;)). @newbie - I was thinking of a gradient, but not nearly one as complex as your malachite picture! :eek: