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Solid lotion may have a fragrance but it's primary purpose is skincare. Solid perfume may help with skincare, but it's primary purpose is fragrance. Do you want to draw people's attention to the skin-care or the fragrance?

Welcome! Crumbly can also mean it wasn't quite past emulsion before you poured. It can get close enough to look smooth but separate back out over time, resulting in a finely grainy, crumbly soap.

I also want to point out that it looks like your honey might have scorched a little, so that's going to make the caramel smell a bit stronger as well. Using mostly frozen liquid or an ice-water bath can keep the honey from burning quite as dark or smelling quite as strong. It will always...

Looks like a fantastic save, and a good learning experience!

Do it! With so many things that can go wrong, at least one of them is likely to go right!* *Results not guaranteed. Please soap responsibly.

Thank you! I just put in an order to lotion crafter this morning for Eumulgin SG and Polysorbate 60, but if neither of those pan out I'll PM you for the recipe. I did make a tiny batch this last weekend with some weaker emulsifiers, and I absolutely loved it... And then it got too cold, and it...

Made more shampoo bars over the weekend, along with a conditioner and a conditioner bar. Also, working on formulating a lotion for my face that doesn't use cetearyl alcohol because my face doesn't seem to like it. For soap, I've been looking at the design elements I want to learn, the fragrances...

I also don't add the Citric Acid until the end. I like to mix all the other ingredients thoroughly and let the mixture sit a couple minutes first.

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Correct. I usually count it as an oil because it does have a very small sap value and because it factors into the volume better.

If you're looking to up the longevity so future batches aren't as soft, up to 5% beeswax may help and be in keeping with the product your looking to create/promote. You could also look into plant butters (Cocoa, Kokum, Mango seed, Shea), Soy wax (hydrogenated soybean oil), or stearic acid to...

I'd give it another 2-3 weeks before worrying about it. If it's still cheese consistency in another month, then I'd start worrying if a measurement was off. It will probably always be more soft than your "regular" soap, and certainly more soluble.

Oh my goodness, they're ADORABLE! Are they wearing little vests?

I use SCI noodles but melt them down for my bars. It takes more time, but it's do-able, and I don't have to deal with SCI powder.

I count from unmolding and cutting. If you've heard of or worked with soap dough, soap can remain soft and pliable indefinitely if it doesn't get a chance to thoroughly dry out. ETA: how big are the bars? The bigger the bars, the longer it takes them to dry out.

I use 1TBS honey PPO, and I've made a number of Oatmeal Honey soaps. Honey is a humectant and doesn't like letting go of water, and oatmeal also absorbs water as the soap heats up and takes a while to let go of it, so Oatmeal Honey soaps can take a while longer to dry out than other soaps. How...

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Light Olive oil might behave better than Pomace, but no guarantees. From your list, Rice Bran oil would probably be best for slowing the recipe down without increasing rancidity. Sunflower would be ok, as long as it was High-Oleic. But if it doesn't specify, I would assume it is the Linoleic...

I haven't tried it yet, but if you are willing to suffer through more Pringles, there is also the lollipop swirl (I Dream in Soap on YouTube has a tutorial). I absolutely LOVE the Taiwan Circling Swirl. I like making things way harder than necessary and as complicated as possible, so I'm...

Welcome!