Recent content by Zuleika

I've only used GMP once and added it to the oils. I realised it didn't blend well. The end soap has a speckled look with visible tiny spots. Sorry I don't have a better close-up picture. Should I have heated my oils before adding the GMP? The oils were about 28C. I don't have a SB but I did...

I think cracking could mean the inside was heating up faster than the outside? I do get cracks now and then but usually smush them over when it's still soft. I had a honey soap that expanded in loaf moulds to become visibly rounded at the top and bottom but no cracks. I think these got hot...

Happens to everyone! When it does, we tell ourselves that we "meant" to do that and make a soap with awesome results. Don't be too hard on yourself. I had soap on a stick that people asked me how did I make such a "textured" soap. If you don't say, no one will know.

My takeaway for the day. I never understood why some of my FO soaps tended towards being "sweaty". Now I know.

Of course I forgot to post my makeshift straw hanger.

To enter the May 2024 SMF Challenge, copy and paste these instructions and the entire list into a new post, adding the next number and your name to the bottom of the list. Sign-up list: 1. Justsomeguy - it's gonna be nerve wrecking but I'm in. My first venture into multicolored soap😬 2. Ackosel...

I'm impatient too but I'm letting it set longer now as it cuts cleaner. I cut my normal soaps around 20-24 hrs. The goat milk castile was the longest. Between 48 to 55 hrs. Even now at about 3 weeks old, it's still soft enough to dent if pressed hard. My latest honey soap went full gel so it...

I love the colour and swirls! If it's still soft enough, just lightly mush the cracks over. I've done that before and no one can tell it cracked. My worst crack was a long line down the middle almost 1/4 inch deep. I can never achieve a dark honey colour with honey only. Mine turns out pale as...

I make honey lye water and chill that. Not the soap itself. Honey soap tends to be softer and need longer to unmold. Mine gelled so I cut in 30 hrs. I did make a goat milk powder castile once that didn't even need chilling because it took 2 days to harden. I had to put it on the heat pad to...

I'm no help here. I've never put a soap in the fridge before. But I'm sure somewhere on the forum this has been mentioned before.

@AliOop Let me get through to mid-May then decide if I want to sign up.

I only have the last weekend in May to soap but I really want to try this. Plus, I found an old hanger in my office that was abandoned by the previous occupant. It must be a sign to repurpose the hanger for hanger swirls.

I'm all in favour of making honey lye water then chill/freeze it. I've done that for all my honey soaps and no drama. Once I even forgot it was a honey soap and covered it with towels on a heating pad. The top didnt even crack, just expanded out of the mould a little at the top and bottom.

I just love how much I can learn here. I never thought of the oils needing heating since my oils are liquid all year round. I always thought heating oils was for peeps in colder weather. I shall look into heating oils in the next few weeks. I am so terribly lazy as a soaper. 🤭

First time I've seen my soap have such a weird ash pattern. I've got the usual top and sides but never sandwiched in the middle. I'm guilty of never melting or heating my oils. Locally, the coldest it ever gets is 25C. When I made the blue soap, it was probably 28C. Could be due to me...